DUTCH KNUCKLE
raw cow milk, aged 8-12 months
The layered complexity of a great beef broth describes the nuanced flavors of this Appenzeller-inspired cheese. Brown Swiss milk, transformed into cheese and long-aged, expresses itself as Nature's version of MSG: robust, bold and mouthwateringly meaty. Lingering long on the tongue, flavor discoveries are unique to the taster. A pleasantly tongue-tingling sensation accompanies longer aged batches along with a fine crystallization that crunches under the teeth. The epitome of milk preservation, each 25-pound wheel represents a distinct moment in time. Wheels are aged from eight to twelve months and harvested by cheesemakers when at their peak.
Service: In the cold weather, grate copious amounts and broil over roasted potatoes. In warm weather, a slab of the stuff on a thick slice of rustic sourdough, topped with a ripe, dripping tomato.
POUNDCAKE
pasteurized cow milk, aged 45-60 days
An indulgent mouthfeel. The pudgey pound-sized wheel is a balance of succulent, pudding-like flesh and a tender yet toothsome rind. Washing the cheese with a salt brine encourages deep ripening and gives the rind its grapefruit hue. A very approachable wash-rind cheese, flavors are of cultured butter with a mellow nuttiness and a whiff of wild onions. This cheese is chewy and supple, its texture found only in the magic that the alchemy of fermenting milk can offer.
Service: For just a snack, with pickles and thinly sliced ham. For something more, on pumperknickle with fresh greenery. To fully indulge, with crisp bubbly and your feet up.
LITTLE DICKENS
pasteurized cow milk, aged 10-14 days
A snowy, white-rinded button often dappled with golden swatches and the occasional appearance of blue. Young, it is rich and silky on the palate with a bright, lactic tang. As this cheese matures, its flavor deepens; aromas are of rising bread dough with finishing taste of true sea salt. With ripening comes a melting just beneath the rind while the core paste grows fudgey in texture. Consider this cheese a fresh, milk biscuit.
Service: In the morning with marmalade. In the afternoon on seeded toast with avocado. In the evening -- unsparingly -- in good company.